Prince George – Tête Juan Cache
August 2, 2020
Prince George – Purden Lake, 63km (980km total)
I started late, but as I’d decided to only go as far as Purden Lake Provincial Park, I didn’t mind.
Almost as soon as I left Prince George, the land began to change, and the road seemed more to drape over it rather than run through it. Hills piled up at the horizon. Gone were farms and ranches, and in their place were endless stretches of forest, some of it old growth, most of it not. The intervals between cars increased, and I felt myself opening up again to the wider world.
I didn’t need to hurry, so I made frequent stops to tweak various aspects of my bike: pannier position, seat height (I’d purchased a new seat in Prince George), gear weight distribution (I’d also purchased a new, larger tent), etc. My spirits were up, and I felt leisurely. I was heading toward the Rocky Mountains, and I had a gentle tailwind to boot.
Dusk neared, and out came the mosquitoes. I couldn’t recall how many times I’d heard just how BAD they were this year. Great! My lip swelled from a bite, practically an insult. I did not that, in general, the bites I weren’t as itchy as they had been previously. Was I adapting?
At Purden Lake, I set up my tent and had a cheerful dinner at my campsite. I went down to the lake for a swim, too. As I packed everything away for the evening, rain began to fall. Sweet dreams.
August 3, 2020
Purden Lake – Lasalle Lake, 107km (1084km total)
It rained on and off all night. I don’t think there’s a more comforting sound than that of rain heard inside a tent.
I saw a couple of bears in the morning. They were too quick for my camera, though.
It continued to rain for most of the day and only began to clear up in the late afternoon/evening. I hate to keep using the M word, but somehow, these northern BC mosquitoes weren’t even deterred by heavy rain. They doggedly kept up with me no matter how much it poured. I took comfort in the fact that some of them must have surely perished in collision with particularly large rain drops.
At one point, I came across a food truck in the middle of nowhere called Joe Boo’s. I had one fantastic burger.
Slowly but surely, mountains came to dominate the horizon. They were a ways away yet, but I’d been told that the view only got better from this point onward. My heart was lifted.
At the end of the day, I turned off the highway and plunged down a steep dirt road toward the (free) Lasalle Lake Campground. The place was as picturesque as a campsite could be, with a dock, calm lake, and rippling foothills in the distance. BC is peppered with these forest service campgrounds. They don’t have the amenities of the provincial lake campgrounds, but they are often beautiful, remote, and far less busy as a result.
I set up my tent next to a couple in a mini camper-van. I was a little jealous, but I bet they were, too.
August 4, 2020
Lasalle Lake – Tête Juan Cache, 113km (1200km total)
Getting back onto the highway was a workout, and by the time I’d left the dirt, I was huffing, puffing, and sweating.
It was a foggy morning. The tailwind that I’d first encountered as I left Prince George picked up early and remained with me for the day, a welcome friend.
As the fog lifted, the scenery really opened up. Mountains all around, to the northeast the ramparts of the Rocky Mountains, and to the southwest, the foothills of the Caribou Mountains. I was also approaching Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, although I’d still not caught a glimpse of it.
I passed through McBride, a funky little town. The immediately surrounding land was ranch country, with mountains bordering in the distance. I recalled the pastoral lands directly east of Pemberton, already a distant memory, or so it seemed.
I had to make it another 68km to Tête Juan Cache, where I’d been given permission to pitch my tent in a Warmshowers host’s backyard. They were COVID cautious and so couldn’t spend too much time with me, but they wanted to help me in any way that they could. Much appreciated!
Up and down and up and down the road gently rolled. The scenery was absolutely stunning. The early evening light gave to all a soft glow, as if from within.
As dusked neared and I approached Tête Juan Cache, one of my Warmshowers hosts rode out to meet and ride the final few kilometres with me. I had already spent so much time by myself on this trip. Small gestures of connection like this meant a lot.
I was treated to a homemade dinner served on a picnic table in their backyard…with a mosquito net covering it!!! I was elated!
I had slowly been gaining elevation since leaving Prince George, and the evening was noticeably more chilly. No matter, my tent was cozy.
The following day, I would be entering the Rocky Mountains.
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